acquired taste
WOLVES OF FOURTH STREET
darian hocking
acquired taste / Issue 04 / 2016
ISSN 1925-8577
Driving across Vancouver Island toward the westernmost accessible edge, the road starts to narrow into something more intimate—winding through dense, protected old-growth forests, punctuated by small townships and rivers that rush from the mountains toward the Pacific. It’s a drive full of switchbacks and hairpin turns, suspended high above lakes and moving water, yet even in all that vivid excitement, it has a calming effect. As you begin to descend, the stress fades. Your senses take over when you lower the window: cedar, fir, damp earth—then finally, the pungent, sharp salt air of the ocean.
Approaching Tofino, the landscape splits into two distinct worlds. On one side, a dense forest, nearly black beyond its edge. On the other, trees bent, twisted, and shaped by wind, rain, and coastal exposure. Over the final stretch into Pacific Rim National Park, the scenery unfolds slowly—glimpses of coastline, waves breaking in the distance—building a quiet anticipation. It feels, unmistakably, a little magical.
Tofino itself sits at the edge of the continent, a small, relaxed town where life moves at its own pace. Despite its remoteness, it’s full of energy—surf shops, small independent boutiques, and a strong community of makers and artisans. It’s the kind of place you could easily miss, if it weren’t quite literally the end of the road.
Spanning a number of years, within that setting a close-knit group of friends built something special.
Nick Nutting, Jorge Barandiaran, and Hailey Pasemko spent years working in restaurants together, their friendship shaped by long hours, shared meals, and a deep connection to food. In 2014, they opened Wolf in the Fog—a space that reflects that history. Welcoming, thoughtful, and quietly exceptional. Not hyperbole, but a genuine synthesis of those qualities.
Nick didn’t originally set out to become a chef. While working his way through an economics degree, he found himself drawn to the energy behind the kitchen—eventually pursuing culinary school and entering fine dining. Over time, his vision shifted. What mattered wasn’t just technical precision; it was creating something more personal, something shared. That vision became the foundation for Wolf in the Fog.
There’s a distinct synergy between the team, the ingredients, and the experience they create. The menu reflects what they genuinely want to eat—driven by seasonality, availability, and instinct rather than ego. Sometimes it’s carefully considered; other times it’s as simple as what’s fresh within the locale, or what hasn’t been cooked in a while.
That philosophy shows up clearly in the food. A standout example: a potato-crusted oyster—wrapped in fine shoestring potatoes, fried, and served with an apple slaw and Dijon. Simple in concept, but executed with precision. The kind of dish you think about long after you’ve left.
Out front, Jorge Barandiaran has built a service culture that feels rare. The team operates with ease and intention, creating an atmosphere that feels more like being welcomed into someone’s home than dining out. His measure of success is simple: Would you come back? Here, the answer is immediate.
Behind the bar, Hailey Pasemko brings that same philosophy to drinks—drawing from her herb garden, foraging locally, even infusing whiskey with cedar tips—developing recipes that feel both thoughtful and playful. The punch bowls, served in vintage vessels, nod to shared experiences and communal drinking—another extension of the restaurant’s core idea: connection.
Even the space reinforces it. Warm, slightly refined, and distinctly West Coast. A towering wall of bottles anchors the room—the cathedral of alcohol. The open kitchen hums with energy, and if you’re inclined after your meal, you can even buy the kitchen a round. Small gestures, but meaningful ones.
What sets Wolf in the Fog apart is its absence of pretension. Where many restaurants lean into performance or celebrity, this one leans into something more earnest. It’s a place shaped by its people, its environment, and its community.
And that’s ultimately why it works.
In just over a year, its success has been undeniable—but more importantly, it feels earned. Built with care, intention, and a genuine love for what they do. Like any great craft, it’s always in the details.
And it’s worth the trip.
fin
A collaborative editorial shoot developed around a statue-inspired visual language. Working with the shoot producer and production team, I helped shape the concept, mood and image direction, using sculptural poses, clothing and chalk-like applications across the models’ skin to explore the relationship between body, surface and form.
Shot at Kit & Ace’s photo studio